Field notes

4 entries

Places the guidebooks missed

  1. 01Kumana, the park everyone drives pastKumana, the park everyone drives pastYala gets 500 jeeps a day. Kumana, ninety minutes further along the same coast, gets about nine.ExpeditionEastern Province5 min
  2. 02Everyone photographs Nine Arch from the wrong sideEveryone photographs Nine Arch from the wrong sideThe viewpoint in every post is a tea shop deck. The bridge looks better from the track above it, and it is free.Easy to reachUva Province4 min
  3. 03Jaffna is a different country, and the train now goes thereJaffna is a different country, and the train now goes therePalmyra instead of coconut, Tamil instead of Sinhala, and a fort the Dutch built twice. Almost no foreign visitors.Takes effortNorthern Province6 min
  4. 04How to order rice and curry without getting the tourist versionHow to order rice and curry without getting the tourist versionThe board says "rice and curry". What arrives depends entirely on how you ask for it.Easy to reachIsland-wide4 min